T.R.’s Tips; Duck Calling
By T.R. Michels, Trinity Mountain Outdoors
Hunters may
not realize that communication among ducks and geese is a
combination of sound, body posture and action. The meaning of a
call may be more related to body posture and action than to the
sound of the call. Because it is difficult to duplicate the body
posture and action of ducks and geese, you need to understand the
meaning of the calls in order to correctly recreate them. Two
thing to keep in mind when you are calling ducks is that the pitch
of the call, and the length of the individual notes of the calls
of different species of ducks, are affected by the relative size
of the duck. Generally speaking, the larger the duck, the deeper
the call and the shorter the individual notes are. While Mallards,
Teal, Black Ducks and Gadwalls all use similar sounding Social
Contact, Decrescendo and Mating calls; the calls of Mallards and
Black Ducks are deeper pitched than the calls of Gadwalls and
Teal. Because of their larger body size Mallards and Black ducks
also call slower than Gadwalls and Teal. While most puddle ducks
will respond to the calls of a Mallard, if you are primarily
hunting species other than Mallards, you should use the right call
for the species you are hunting.
Puddle Duck Calling Sequence
When I first
see puddle ducks a long way off I use a loud, long hail or high
ball call (decrescendo) to get their attention and let them know
where I am. I also use loud, long calls on windy days, when the
ducks can’t hear as well, especially if they are upwind; and when
I’m hunting flooded river bottoms, where sound doesn’t carry very
far. If the birds don’t come my way, or if they turn off before
the come in, I use a more drawn out version of the decrescendo, to
try to convince the birds to come my way. While I call I watch the
birds. If they respond to the call I’m using, I keep it up. If
they don’t respond I try something else: a loud decrescendo; a
soft decrescendo; a long, drawn out decrescendo; a string of short
quacks; or a chuckle, whatever it takes. Sometimes I quit calling
all together, to see if that works.
Once the ducks
get within a hundred yards or so I use softer, shorter hail calls
and slow, loud quacks, trying to sound like a contented hen. Most
duck hunters have heard the early morning quacks of a hen Mallard
across the water, that’s the sound you should imitate when your
calling ducks that are in close. When the ducks are close don’t
blow loud, fast quacks, that’s the sound a duck uses as it jumps
into the air when it’s alarmed. And don’t over call. If the ducks
are coming toward you, put the call down, grab the gun, and let
‘em come. If they look like they might swing off use slow, soft
quacks or the chuckle to keep them coming.
Calling Diver Ducks
Most of the
calls used for hunting diver ducks can be performed on a standard
mallard call by growling into the call to produce the rrrr of the
females. You can produce the scaup of the males by cupping your
hand around the call and blowing a short eouuk while closing your
hand at the end of the sound. I use a Haydel’s MG-84 Marsh Guide
Mallard for a high pitched call, and a Haydel’s DR-85 Double Reed
Mallard for lower pitched calls. Lohman offers their Model 450
Diving Duck Call specifically for hunting divers.
Think While You Are Calling
When you are
calling ducks, think about what you are trying to do. Initially
you try to get their attention, to let them know there are other
ducks in the area, and where they are. If the ducks aren’t coming
toward you, you try to get them to change their course and come
closer. As the ducks get closer you try to convince them that
there are other ducks on the water, that it is safe to land, and
that the area is a good place to rest and feed in safety. However,
the calls you are performing are not used by the ducks for those
purposes. They are used to announce a willingness to mate, used
during courtship behavior, and used as a threat. So, what you have
to do is use the calls the ducks use, but, use them in a way that
will get the ducks to do what you want them to do.
You can use a
loud decrescendo as a hail call to initially get the ducks
attention. Even though the decrescendo is a pair bonding call, it
can be used to attract ducks because they are accustomed to
hearing it in the fall. You can also use the decrescendo as a
comeback call to turn the ducks, and as a pleading call to entice
the birds to land. But, when you are calling, remember that ducks
are not very big, and they have small lungs, they can’t possibly
call as loud as I hear some hunters blow their calls. The closer
the ducks get, the softer you should call.
You can use a
series of quacks and chuckles to convince the birds that your
decoys are real, and that everything is all right. Even though the
inciting call is a threat and not a feeding call; it is used by
ducks in a feeding situation. You can use the chuckle or a diver
growl to convince the in coming ducks that there are one or more
drakes harassing the hens in your spread. To add more realism to
your calling you can use the social contact calls of the drakes,
and the sounds of any other duck or goose species that might be in
the area.
Be Adaptable
I always carry
more than one Mallard call, each call with a different pitch. If
the ducks don’t respond to one call I try the others, until I find
one they do respond to. I also carry several calls so that I have
a backup when the call I’m using gets wet and won’t blow. While I
really like the sound of a good wooden call, they sometimes have a
tendency to freeze up on cold days. I always have a couple of
non-wooden calls with me. Plastic, polycarbonate and acrylic calls
may still freeze up, but you can usually clear out the ice by
blowing into them hard, or by knocking them against your hand.
To keep from
sounding like every other hunter on the marsh, especially when the
ducks don’t seem to be responding to my hen Mallard hail calls,
quacks and chuckles I use a drake Mallard call. When the ducks
won’t respond to a Mallard call I use a Pintail/Widgeon/Teal
whistle or a Wood Duck whistle, which may be all it takes to get
the ducks to respond. If I’m hunting lakes, rivers, sloughs or
marshes that are big enough for divers to use I also keep a diver
call on my lanyard. I include decoys of these other species in my
decoy spread just in case some of them show up. After being hunted
for several days or weeks the ducks often get call and decoy shy.
When this happens I may stop calling altogether, use fewer or more
decoys, or move to a new location.
Purchasing A Duck Call
If you really
want to sound like the ducks you’ve got to have calls that can
produce the right sounds. There are a lot of calls on the market
that don’t produce the right sounds, or that can’t produce a wide
range of tones. If a call doesn’t produce the right sounds, or is
not able to produce a wide range of sounds, you won’t be able to
reproduce realistic duck calls with it. If you have limited
experience with a duck calls stick with a double reed call,
although they are more limited in their range of tones than single
reed calls, they are easier to blow, and they will get you blowing
the right sounds more quickly, and more consistently. After you
become proficient on a double reed you may want to get a custom
single reed call.
Before you buy
any call I suggest you give it a try. Blow a loud high ball, a
softer quack and a chuckle, to see how the call performs. If you
are one of those callers who likes to tune their own calls, ask
before you start fiddling with the reed; some stores will let you
and some won’t. If you’re looking for good over the counter calls
Big River, Haydel’s, Hunter’s Specialties, Knight & Hale, Lohman,
Mallardtone, Primos, Quaker Boy and Sure Shot all make good
inexpensive calls. If you can’t find what you want at your local
store, Bass Pro Shops, Cabela’s, Herter’s, Trinity Mountain
Outdoor Products, Wing Supply and several other catalogs offer a
good selection of calls and instructional tapes.
As with most
things you pay for, the better the call, the higher the price. The
price of custom calls made of laminated wood, cocabola wood and
acrylics start at around $70. I don’t suggest you buy an expensive
call through the mail, unless you know the maker, because you may
not be able to return it. The best way to buy a custom call is to
meet the maker at a show, and try several calls, then choose the
one you like. If you don’t like the sound of the call most of the
makers will tune it while you wait. Watching a call maker tune a
call, and asking questions about how and why they do it, is also a
good way to learn how to tune your own calls.
This article
is an excerpt from the Duck & Goose Addict’s Manual ($14.95 +
$5.00 S&H) , by T.R. Michels.
T.R. Michels
is a nationally recognized game researcher/wildlife behaviorist,
outdoor writer and speaker. He is the author of the Whitetail,
Elk, Duck & Goose, and Turkey Addict’s Manuals. His latest
products are the 2003 Revised Edition of the Whitetail Addict’s
Manual, the 2003 Revised Edition of the Elk Addict’s Manual; and
the 2003 Revised Edition of the Duck & Goose Addict’s Manual. For
a catalog of books and other hunting products contact: T.R.
Michels, Trinity Mountain Outdoors, PO Box 284, Wanamingo, MN
55983, USA. Phone: 507-824-3296,
E-mail:
trmichels@yahoo.com,
Web site: ww.TRMichels.com