October 1, 2004
Article

A Winter Boat Storage Checklist
Simple, cheap insurance for a reliable craft next spring
By Jerry Curtis

Despite the warm September that provided bass anglers a bonus extended season this year, by the time late-October and early November arrives, hawg chasing has pretty much ended for the year. Many of us have hunting on the brain, and unless youıre willing to trailer south to warmer climes, itıs time for cold weather boat storage.

This dreary, end-of-season chore conjures images of backbreaking work and tedious hassles. But it doesnıt have to be that way. With a simple plan and checklist, you can keep your boat safe, protected, and in reliable shape for spring. Later this winter, weıll talk about off-season rod, reel and tackle maintenance, but for now, I want to focus on the really spendy gear ­ the boat, motor and trailer.

Since Iım never sure when my last trip of the year has occurred, I trim the motor and drain it every time I pull my boat. We love water in the summer, but itıs your enemy in the winter for one simple reason: It expands when it freezes. And if that water freezes in your motor, it will destroy your lower unit and bust up your water pump. Make sure to pull that drain plug so no water is freezing in the back of the boat or livewell (donıt laugh, itıs happens!). Duct tape the plugs to the side of the compartment or place in your glovebox so you donıt lose them.

When youıre ready for two to four months or winter storage, take your rig to an authorized dealer and have that motor fogged out. Theyıll run a lubricating oil mixture through the engine that will keep any moisture from adhering to pistons and causing any scoring. Have them lubricate the hubs and bearings on your trailer while youıre there.

Pull all your batteries out of the boat, and ideally, store them on a shelf in your garage. Any portable electronics probably should come inside, too, if for no other reason than theyıre valuable and easy to steal. Most modern electronics, even liquid crystal graphs, can handle the cold temperatures, but if theyıre not permanently installed, I usually bring them inside. Keep batteries off cement floors. If you donıt, that cement will draw out all the juice, leaving you with a big paperweight. If you want to avoid keeping them up on shelves, place a piece of plywood, some two-by-fours, or even some thick carpet between the battery and the concrete floor. You just need a barrier of some sort in between.

Set a once-a-month schedule to charge the batteries. I shoot for the first of each month and give them a quick charge to keep the electrolytes up. You probably already own the charging equipment, and electricity is cheap.

Unplug that bow-mount trolling motor and apply a little lubricant to the male portion of the plug. I take a rag and spray some WD40 on it, then wipe the prongs down. That simple coating of oil keeps corrosion and rust at bay. Use the simple little squirt nozzle on the WD40 bottle to apply a quick dash (emphasis on dash, just a little) to the outlet, too. Again, weıre just putting a barrier between the metal and moisture.

Most of us store boats outside or in a pole shed for the winter. Take some baby food jars, mason jar lids, or some Dixie cups and put some moth balls in them. Place these in all your compartments in the boat to deter insects or rodents from making your boat their winter home. Most modern watercraft are sealed pretty tight, but even one mouse with attitude can chew up a lot of wiring or make mess of a compartment. This little insurance demands a grand total of five minutes and can save major headaches come spring. Using disposable cups or jar lids means easy cleanup of the moth balls in the spring, too. You donıt want a loose mothball stinking up your scent-free fishing-catching machine next year.

That pole shed probably has a dirt floor, right? Throw a piece of plywood under the trailer wheels to keep moisture away from those rubber tires. Even on concrete floors, if you can avoid moisture buildup and decay with your tires, theyıll be ready to roll in the spring. Better yet, jack up the axle with a couple concrete blocks and get the tires an inch or so off the ground altogether. Again, five minutes of effort now may save hours of effort come spring. And with the cost of equipment these days, this is time well spent.

My final step also qualifies as cheap insurance. A few years back, I bought an inexpensive boat tarp from a big home improvement discount center. After I affix my travel cover on the boat, I grab one of my duck hunting push-poles and secure it a foot or so above my travel tarp the length of the boat. A long 2-by-4 or piece of metal fence support would work well, too. You just need something long that will extend from the bow to stern that you can throw the boat tarp over. Secure it with bungee cords around the boat and down to the trailer. It makes a makeshift tepee over your travel cover for additional protection. Rain, snow, bird droppings, or whatever, will roll right off and not soil or stain your equipment.

Follow this simple checklist and in five months, that well-oiled machine will hit the soft water again in prime shape. Your wallet will bulge a little thicker, too, thanks to all those saved maintenance costs. Now who can argue with that?!