Most freshwater species are fare game during open water season in the northern states. But once temperatures plummet, and subsequently, surfaces harden, a handful of otherwise popular fish varieties seemingly disappear from sight and mind. Few anglers boast about landing giant catfish in January, although it does happen from time to time. How many hard core muskie fishermen chase their quarry into winter? And lumped together with the aforementioned species are largemouth bass. Bass anglers are as fanatical about their sport as archers and stream trout fishermen, but oddly enough, the majority abandon their passion long before Christmas each year. Maybe it’s the cold, or possibly even their aversion for live bait. Whatever the reason, they are missing out on some knockout action.

Do you remember catching bass on your favorite lake last fall? There’s a fighting chance the fish were clinging to heavy green weeds in shallow water. Does this sound familiar? The best action was probably inside or just outside shallow weed infested bays. Am I still on track? In short, the hottest lakes to catch wintertime largemouth bass on are the same ones that consistently produce during summer and autumn.

For the most part, largemouth bass are weed fish. They use weeds for protection, as well as a food source. Not that bass actually eat greens, but weeds hold just about everything found in a bass’ diet. So with this mind, seek out weed-laden waters.

A lake’s finest weed beds usually lie along shallow shoreline stretches and inside soft- bottomed bays. Whichever the case, select the thickest, nastiest weeds available. Typically, foliage-relating bass are in one of three modes: 1.) Nestling amongst heavy weeds. 2.) Methodically slithering within the bed. 3.) Actively cruising the outside edge. So it is your job to engage them no matter what mood they are in or where they are.

On shoreline weeds, the first order of business is to locate the outside weed-edge (where foliage discontinues growing). Deep clear lakes might support vegetation down to 16, 18, or even 20 feet. Shallow murky waters, on the other hand, support weeds down to only 6, 8, and 10 feet, or thereabouts. Either way, it is paramount to locate the edge.

Bays also offer a weed edge. What you need to determine is if the weedline sits inside or outside the bay’s actual perimeter. On shallow silt-bottomed bays the weed edge commonly sits well outside the bay itself, compared to deeper bays where the weedline rests within the confines of the bay.

Let’s assume that you have chosen a weed bed, either along a shoreline or inside a bay. It is time to cut numerous holes both along the weeds and deep inside the greenery. On the outside, plug at least 2 or 3 holes for every legal line you are able to fish with. Drill holes on the very edge, as well as 10 to 20 feet toward deeper water. The extra holes might come into plat later.

Cut at least as many holes inside the weed bed. The key here is to locate "pockets". Most shallow water weed beds offer randomly scattered clearings. Early in the season, before snow blankets the ice, clearings in the weeds can be seen through the ice. Later, when the ice grays, or snow blankets it, it is necessary to drill a number of holes in order to establish where weed openings lie.

Now that the holes are popped the most effective way to catch largemouth bass through the ice is to walk away from them. What? You heard it, get the heck out of there. A little elaboration is necessary at this point. Don’t try jigging them, and even a "dead stick" rigged with a bobber, plain hook, and minnow is not the way to go. Instead, the "lazy man’s tool", "board", or "flag" is in order. Tip-ups are the way to go. They present bait in a natural manner, while at the same time enabling anglers to move away from the action. Commotion caused by fishermen moving around the ice can spook shallow water bass.

In Minnesota, where anglers are permitted two lines (Wisconsin fishermen can use three), begin by placing one tip-up along the weed edge while setting the second line inside the weeds. Continue dropping lines in this pattern based on the number of fishermen in your party. Example: A proper scenario for three Minnesota fishermen would be to have three tip-ups scattered deep inside the weeds, two tip-ups lying right along the outside weed edge, and a lone tip-up backed 6 to 10 yards beyond the weedline. If the inside tip-ups receive all the action, move a few more flags into the weeds, and visa versa, although it’s smart to keep at least one line in deep water readied for a prowling walleye or trophy bass.

Rigging a tip-up for wintertime bass fishing is much simpler than what’s required during the open water season. Start with a #4 or #2 plain hook tied onto an 18 to 24 inch segment of 10 to 14 pound monofilament. Connect the monofilament to the braided or coated tip-up spool with a barrel swivel. Pinch a single 1/32 to 1/16-ounce split-shot sinker between the hook and swivel. The distance between the split-shot and hook will vary depending on how active the bait is. For instance, if your minnow continuously gets tangled amongst the weeds its time to slow the critter down by sliding the sinker closer to the hook, hence restricting motion.

Bait of choice is obviously a minnow, but as opposed to many other forms of ice fishing, with largemouth bass, it pays to be particular. Don’t buy fathead minnows, they’re not up to the job. Stay away from suckers, they’re a magnet for northern pike. Shiner minnows are preferred. Both lake shiners (silver) and golden shiners are vulnerable to bass. If possible, purchase midsize to large shiners, because bass are not afraid to take big bait.

Hook your minnow just behind the dorsal (back) fin. By hooking it through the back you won’t hinder the minnow’s action. Next, lower the package down until it is about 1 to 3 feet off the bottom. Experiment with settings. Now all that’s left is to move away from your tip-up field and wait. Flags should be flying soon.