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Mid February 1998
Bring on the Spring Turkeys
By Vito Manzi
I mustpreface this article with a warning about spring turkey hunting. It is very,
very addictive! All it takes is to hear the booming gobble of a mature tom at first light,
and you will be hooked. Its that simple. Thoseof you who are already bitten buy the
turkey bug know how it feels.Each spring there is a growing legion of hunters that are
willing to match their abilities against the grandest game bird in North America, some
have an experienced hunter to show them the ropes, while others go to show them the
ropes,while others go at it their own.
Fixing your tag into a spring gobbler has been described as one of the most difficult
tasks in all of hunting, and with goodreason. The wary nature of the bird alone is the
single most contributing factor, but if you consider all of the other variables; hens,
weather, turkey talk, obstacles....you get the idea. It can become a very frustrating
sport. Thiswill be the first in a three part series to help you get started on the right
foot. I will cover the basics, as well as some in depth tactics to use when your out
hunting this spring. We will focus on the gear thatyou will need in this issue, followed
by scouting and finally with calling the bird in.
If youre into gadgets, then you will feel right at home as a turkey hunter. If
you take a look into any spring catalog, you will notice that there are hundreds of items
related to turkey hunting. Camouflage is a must. Every single part of your body must be
camouflaged or an approaching gobbler will pickyou out in an instant. There are several
different patterns in the market. For early in the season, when the leaves have not yet
appeared on the trees, a pattern like Realtree Extra Gray or Mossy Oaks Breakup of
Fall Foliage will do thetrick. Changing your upper body garments to a pattern with green
shades as the woods bloom and the foliage comes out with help you blend in even better.
Camouflage gloves, hat and facemask will round out your clothing. A good vest is an
essential part of your spring turkey gear. You can carry all of your calls and other gear
in the vest. Decoys can be stuffed in the back compartment, and the foam seat that comes
with the vest will allow you to sit comfortably for hours while working that old long
beardin. What to put in your vest is a subject that can fill the pages of this entire
magazine and that space wouldnt be enough! There are a few must haveitems that the
beginner shouldhave stuffed into their vest.
Locator calls are an invaluabletool, not only do they give away a gobblers location,but
they can help you keep tabs on him in the event that you have to move to a better set up
site. Owl hooters are a great way to get response from a rooster tom. The "who
cooksforyou, who cooks for you all" call of a barred owl usually gets a tom going in
the morning just as pink starts to appear in the eastern sky.There are several styles of
owl hooters on the marketand they will all reproduce the owls hoots. Practice and
become comfortable using one, it is the call that will get your morning off to a good
start. Another must have locator call is a crow call. You can use a crow call from first
light and right up until closing time at noon. While walking throughthe woods during
scouting or on an actual hut, stop and listen as soon as you hear a crow, you will be
amazed how many times a turkey will respond to the crows flying overhead. You mayonly hear
a faint gobble from a distant tom, but that will be enough to allow you to move into
position to try to call that bird in. When blowing your crow call, dont be bashful
with it! Blow it hard and loud. Imitate the three or four note caw-caw-caw of a real crow.
When selectinga call, find one that will produce a sharp loud call, the more volume you
can get out of it the better. Remember that you are trying to shock a gobble out of a tom,
and rarely if ever will a tom respond to a timid series on the call.
Another super locator call that is used by only a handful of hunters, but is gaining in
popularity, is a Pileated Woodpecker call. These calls work great latter in the morning
and especially in heavily hunted areas.The woodpecker call has an extremely sharp tone to
it that willget a pressured tom to gobble.
Loading your vest up with calls can drive you crazy and broke at the same time. There
are so many calls out there that having all of them is impossible. You havethree
basicchoices when it comes to selecting a turkey call. Diaphragms, frictioncalls,
including box and slate calls. I would say first timers would learn to stroke out a yelp
the fastest on a box call. Pickup an audio-cassette of turkeys in the wild at your local
sporting goods store. You will hear all the sounds a wild turkey will make, and then you
can practice your calling while you listento the tape. Slatecalls once meant exactly
whatthe name implied,a piece of slateglued into a wooden or plastic pot. The downside to
the slate is that they cannot be used in wet or verydamp weather, the moisture effects the
tone. Thanks to todays moderntechnology, other materials are being used in place of
the slate. Aluminum, glass, stainless steel, crystal, there are a lot of choices to be
made. Each one hasits pros and cons, but the softest sounds come fromthe slate calls. The
aluminum slates that cam out a few years ago are dynamite. Theyhave a very sharp,high
pitched sound that will get the most stubborn gobblers to sound off. I used an aluminum
slate for the first time last year with a great success, it produces ear-ringing cuts and
yelps that gobblers cant stand not to answer. A glass slate will also give you a
nice mellow tone, like the slate, and paired with a carbon or Plexiglas striker is nearly
waterproof. They are not very difficult to learn or operate, and can duplicate almostall
of the calls a turkey, with the exception of a gobble.
Diaphragms are the most difficult tolearntouse, but with a little bit of determined
practice, can be mastered in no time. The diaphragms are a wonderful call to usebecause
they leave your hands free, and that comes in handy for close in work on a hung up
gobbler. There are also an astounding number of diaphragm calls available. The easiest to
pick up and learn with would have to be a double or triple reed call. Save the four reed
calls with cuts in them for when you havebecome comfortable with the basic two and three
reed calls. Throw in a pair of compact binoculars, a jake and hen decoy, your trusty field
knife, and your vest will be complete. It soundslike a lot of "stuff" to carry
around, but I promise you, as you will see in the following articles, that you will use
just about everything packed away in your vest.
Shotgun selection is a matter of personal preference.The only important factor to
consider is that your shotgun has an extra full choke that throws a tight, even pattern
out to 40yards. Spend some time at the range patterning your gun, experiment with
different loads, and stick with the onethat puts most pellets into the turkeys head and
neck area. As an example, my Remington 11-87 shoots 3 inch Federal4s beautifully,
shoot 5sor 6s out of it, and I could countonone hand the numberof pellets that
hit the head neck area.Soyoucan see how important it is to spend some time withyour
shotgun. You are not pointing yourshotgun as if you were bird hunting, but actually aiming
it like a rifle. The head/neck area is the only way you will bring a 20plus pound bird
down. A bodyshot willsend the turkey off running, never to be found.
Select the calls you feelmost comfortable with, pattern your gun, and next month we
will be ready too have some fun with some hints on scouting and locating birds.
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